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About David Kier

Camping and four wheeling Baja California has been a passion of David Kier, starting as a child in the family Jeep. At 15, David published his first Baja guidebook and a second was published the following year. David enjoys helping travelers and continues to research Baja’s rich history and write travel articles. In 2012, he teamed up with history authors Kurillo and Tuttle to write The Old Missions of Baja & Alta California, 1697-1834. David maintains the website to share his travels, and more!

The Spanish Missions Of Baja

The Spanish Missions Of Baja

Photos by Jack Swords

Spanish Missions of Baja

Mission San Ignacio was founded in 1728 by the Jesuit missionary Juan Bautista Luyando.

One of history’s greatest endeavors was the establishment of the mission system in Baja California. When it began in 1697, California was believed by many to be an island and as remote from Spain as Mars is today from Earth. The goal was to occupy the land for the king and convert the native population to Christianity and the European style of living.

The Jesuit Order was given the task to establish these missions as they had been successful on the mainland of Mexico. Because all previous attempts at colonizing the peninsula had failed, the Jesuits made special demands to have complete autonomy in the project. The king agreed, but the Jesuits would have to finance the operation with private money. Benefactors came forward and donated to a ‘Pious Fund’ from which the system could build the missions.

Spanish Missions of Baja

Mission Santa Rosalia de Mulege in Baja California Sur.

The following 70 years, 17 missions were founded by the Jesuits on the peninsula. They also had built a ‘Royal Highway’ called El Camino Real to connect the missions and their satellite sub-missions, called ‘visitas’ which supported the head mission, called a ‘cabecera’.

With political changes going on in Europe, the Jesuit success in the New World became suspect. Rumors of wealth acquired in the new lands that were never proven, had caused their expulsion to be ordered in 1767. All the Jesuits in California were marched to Loreto, and in February, 1768 sailed to the mainland where they would walk across Mexico and join the other Jesuits in sailing back to Europe.

Spanish Missions of Baja

Mission San Luis Gonzaga Chiriyaqui is located in central Baja California Sur, 35 miles southeast of Ciudad Constitucion.

The Franciscan Order would be next on the peninsula, but without the autonomy and would be following Royal directives. One of these was to push the mission system into the lands north of the peninsula and quickly establish missions at the harbors of San Diego and Monterey (the bay of San Francisco was not yet discovered). This new land was first called Nueva (New) California and the peninsula was known as Antigua (Old) California. Before long, the names would change to Alta (Upper) California and Baja (Lower) California.

Just 5 years after the Franciscan arrived, they requested to be relieved of the Baja California missions, including the first one they had founded at Velicatá named San Fernando. The Dominicans would take over operation of the Baja California missions and establish nine more between San Fernando de Velicatá and San Diego from 1774 to 1834.

Spanish Missions of Baja

Mission Loreto, also known as Mision de Nuestra Senora de Loreto Concho.

Mexico had won its independence from Spain in 1821, but California was so remote, the Dominicans and Franciscans were allowed to continue their efforts for many years following Mexico’s independence. Sadly, the diseases and new lifestyles introduced by the Europeans had devastating results on the native people on the peninsula. By 1800, the mission system in Baja California was in decline and missions began closing for lack of purpose. By 1841, all but one mission had closed or became a parish church serving the new residents of Baja California, arriving from across the gulf. In 1849, the last mission serving the native people closed at Santo Tomás. In 1854, Fr. Gabriel Gonzalez resigned as the last Dominican president in Baja California.

The Franciscans who learned well of the mistakes made by their predecessors had greater success in Alta California. This success lasted until Mexico’s secularization act (issued in 1832) ended the mission system before the natives were fully converted to European ways. Most of the natives returned to the mountains, and the missions fell into ruin. In 1848, Alta California became American territory and the Gold Rush filled the region with new people from the East Coast. Baja California also had some short-lived gold rushes in the following years, but the population impact was not as great.

Spanish Missions of Baja

The ruins of Mission Santa Maria de los Angeles.

The history of Old California (Baja) is fascinating, and the missions are but one part of the story. Each of the 27 missions in Baja California has a story to tell and many books from grand intellectual masterpieces to small paperback guides have been written on the subject. Changes in information on the missions have been made as old texts from the padres are discovered. Information that fills in missing links to some of the stories on the missions help modern writers to tell a more complete story or correct past errors.

Planning a trip to Baja California? Talk to a travel agent at is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula. We offer Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurantshotelsvacation rentals and activities, as well as guides, maps, complete event calendars and great stories about incredible travel destinations, from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas.  We also provide free personal travel consulting, planning and booking services in Los Cabos, Todos Santos and La Paz, with prices that match or are below best advertised price. For more information, please call toll-free (US/CAN) 855-BAJA-411 or email us at

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Traveling the Royal Road: El Camino Real Of Baja California

Traveling the Royal Road: El Camino Real Of Baja California

El Camino Real translates to “The Royal Road” or sometimes “The King’s Highway”. In Spain, El Camino Real was any road built by and for the king. Often as a source of commerce and revenue, such as taxes to the royal coffers. In the New World, El Camino Real was mostly a main corridor of trade and supply. In Baja California, El Camino Real was the connecting road between the Spanish missions. While it did not serve the same purpose as in other parts of Spain or the New World, it was still a way to secure California for the king.

Jesuit padres engineered the road and Spanish soldiers built the first sections on the peninsula. Later the native Indians did more of the work. The network of roads radiated out from the first mission at Loreto. The Jesuits established California’s first 17 missions and the Camino Real was a line of communication between them. The first sections of El Camino Real went north from Loreto to the visita (satellite church and village) of San Juan Bautista Londo, and the other went west to the second California mission of San Francisco Javier.

El Camino Real

A pictogram marks El Camino Real.

The Camino Real built during the Jesuit period (1697-1768) was so well engineered that most of it can be seen today on the ground or from space satellite images from Loreto to San Francisco Borja, the 16th mission. The Jesuits were removed from Baja California before they had the opportunity to build the Camino Real to their final mission of Santa Maria. However, even the smaller trail to Santa Maria can be seen in many places.

The Franciscans and Dominicans who continued the mission program in Baja California never constructed roads as the Jesuits had. The Camino Real north of Santa Maria is difficult to see and usually was no more elaborate than a cow or burro path. The route is known thanks to writings of the padres and early travelers in Baja California because place names, water sources, landmarks, often kept the original names given by the Spanish.

El Camino Real

Trails still exist along the old King’s Road.

In the last century, three Baja California enthusiasts researched, traveled on, and wrote about the Camino Real:
From 1905 through 1906, Arthur North traveled the peninsula by mule and wrote ‘Camp and Camino in Lower California’ c1910.

In the 1950’s, Howard Gulick traveled by Jeep, mule and on foot in Baja California and noted the location of the Camino Real on maps and in an unpublished paper. Gulick co-authored the ‘Lower California Guidebook through several editions starting in 1956.

In the 1960’s and 1970’s, Harry Crosby traveled most of the Camino Real by mule and wrote ‘The King’s Highway in Baja California’ c1974. Three years later, a series of detailed maps and articles by Crosby of the Camino Real was published in the winter 1977 edition of ‘The Journal of San Diego History’. In 2002, Harry Crosby wrote ‘Gateway to Alta California’ which details the exact location of El Camino Real from San Fernando Velicata to San Diego.

El Camino Real

Author David Kier hiking El Camino Real.

Personally, to walk the same path as Baja pioneers of centuries past is high point of my Baja travels. I have hiked some of the Camino Real near Mision Santa Maria, west of Bahia San Luis Gonzaga as well as sections near El Rosario and Santa Gertrudis. Others I know have used mules the past few years to experience the mission trail.

Sadly, modern construction and road building have destroyed many sections of the old mission road. Nature already has erased sections from slow erosion to flash floods to plant growth. Because much of the Camino Real stayed in the mountains where water sources were located, it may still be visible for another 300 years!

View El Camino Real maps courtesy of the San Diego History Center website.

Planning a trip to Baja California? Talk to a travel agent at is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurantshotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year.  For more information, please call toll-free (US/CAN) 855-BAJA-411 or email us at

Photos courtesy of David Kier.

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