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LA to Tulum, Day 3 — Todos Santos

By Larry Crowson

Day 3

Arriving into Todos Santos brought a familiar sense of comfort, as I’ve been coming here for 7 years now and both know and love this little town. I had called my friend James from just outside La Paz to see if he’d had lunch yet. I was starving and both towns have great taco stands. He said he had a new fish taco place to show me, and that’s all I needed to hear. As I headed to James’ place to pick him up, I could almost taste those fish tacos.

Todos Santos Beach

Todos Santos is a nice small artist town that has been put on the map over the past 20 years.  With Charles Stewart moving there from Taos, now there are many galleries and artists who call Todos home. It has a nice mix of both local Mexican and Gringo artist from all over the world whose works are displayed around town.

Todos Santos received the “Pueblo Magical” designation a few years ago, which brought international recognition and much needed money from the Federal Government to make improvements to the town. Tourists from Cabo and La Paz flock here daily to eat lunch, shop at the many stores and galleries, and walk around the village soaking up the atmosphere. The one thing almost everyone has heard of in town is the Hotel California and, while the 70s era rock band the Eagles claim to have never been in town, the locals don’t believe that for a minute; you might hear the famous song around town in a bar called Tequila Sunrise owned by a friend of mine here who’s a local businessman.

Back to my quest for fish tacos—there are many local street carts or small palapa restaurants around town, all serving up local fresh caught fish and shrimp tacos and tortas plus the usual array of grilled beef, chicken and pork.

James told me Taco Georges had moved to a nicer sitting street side place just off the main street. The second you walk under the thatched palapa roof, your senses come alive with the sights, smells, and sounds of the local street vibe with incredible array of colors and food around you.  Sticking to my plan, I order my usual two Cameron (shrimp) and one fish tacos. They bring over a basket of chips and two cold Pacifico’s and we dive into the fresh Pico de gallo. I could eat this stuff every day and usually do on just about everything I eat, except for cold cereal. If you haven’t tasted fresh pico, you haven’t lived and it’s so simple to make: chop up a few local tomatoes, cilantro, onions, fresh limejuice and salt.

After lunch, I head out to Cerritos Beach to kick back and see how the building boom is doing out there. There has been a slow steady drum of construction now for several years as more and more folks have discovered the area. You’re an hour away from to two major airports yet far enough away that you feel like you’re in old Mexico.

It’s one of the few good swimming beaches in the area as the Pacific is very strong here with currents that demand your respect if you’re not familiar with these waters. The real attraction is surfing and, as always, there’s great beach action to enjoy with another cold Pacifico from the beach bar.  How cool is it to sit in a plush beach chair in the sand under an umbrella and relax away the afternoon while being served cold beer whenever you want it. They even have live music on the weekends. This place is still so laid back—I hope it never changes.

Well it was nice to visit old friends and see my property; we built a bodega a few years back and have been steadily filling it up with stuff from Oregon.  We have accumulated so much stuff: beach chairs, clothes, bbq, towels, etc. that we would have never been able to fly with it all, so this trip was a great chance to reclaim it all.  I emptied out the contents into my car and headed back towards La Paz to catch the midnight ferry across the Sea of Cortez to Los Mochis.

 

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