Romance, Wine and Azteca Horses: A Visit to Adobe Guadalupe in Mexico’s Wine Country

A Visit to Adobe Guadalupe in Mexico’s Wine Country: Romance, Wine and Azteca Horses

Adobe Guadalupe in Mexico's wine country

It was Valentine’s Day, 2005, when my husband and I first met Don and Tru Miller. Even though we live only 30 minutes from their working winery and bed and breakfast inn near Ensenada, in Mexico’s wine country, we had heard so much about Adobe Guadalupe that we decided to spend a romantic night there. Happily, we found that all of the superlatives that had been applied to Adobe Guadalupe were true. We returned home the next day with several of Don’s excellent wines in hand, and wondered how long Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe (the wine valley, just a little more than an hour south of the US border) would remain a secret.

Suffice it to say, the secret is out.

Adobe Guadalupe's wines are among the finest produced in Mexico's wine country.

Today, Adobe Guadalupe is recognized as one of the original players in what is seen as the ‘new age’ of Mexican wines. With approximately 60 acres of vineyards where Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Shiraz and some Viognier are grown, the vinicola (winery) has garnered numerous awards and helped heighten the overall stature of Mexico’s wine industry. In fact, Adobe Guadalupe and its owners have been instrumental in propelling the Valle de Guadalupe into the international spotlight as a region of high gastronomy, gracious hostelry and as a destination for visitors from throughout the world. Mexico’s wine country is trending, in a very big way.

The Annual Festival de Caballo Arte y Vino is held at Adobe Guadalupe in Mexico's wine country.

Over the years, I’ve visited the winery a number of times. It plays host to one of my most favorite events in Baja California, the Annual Festival del Caballo, Arte y Vino (the Festival of the Horses, Art & Wine), which in 2013 will be held on Sunday, June 9. For me, this is family friendly fun and offers an authentic experience in a spectacular environment. The smell of carne asada, the whinnying of horses, the laughter of children, all framed by vineyards in bloom under vast valley skies is simply irresistible – as is the chance to taste local wines and meet the characters who produce them.

Recently, I had the opportunity to return to Adobe Guadalupe, once again. This time, though, Tru Miller introduced me to her newest love, a gentle-faced fellow called Donaldo. He is certainly not as charming as Tru’s husband, Don Miller…but he is, after all, a horse.

An expert in dressage, Marci Plopper trains all of Adobe Guadalupe's horses, including Donaldo. Photo by Tomas Castelazo

Actually, he is one of number of horses raised under Tru’s auspices at Adobe Guadalupe, which is gaining fame as a premier stable for Azteca horses. Aztecas combine the characteristics of the original breeding horses, the Andalusian and the Quarter horse, and have now evolved into their own breed which has the stamina, elegance and movement required in any discipline of equestrian sport, whether it be dressage, eventing and jumping, or pleasure riding. Adobe Guadalupe’s mares are bred to pure Spanish Andalusians. The stables are currently home to 23 Aztecas (including five brood mares), and Tru works directly with potential buyers who are interested in acquiring these much-sought-after equines to refine their own lines.

Working with Tru on this aspect, and sharing her love for the Aztecas and all of the ranch horses, is Marci Plopper. Marci has extensive background in international dressage (horses at Adobe Guadalupe begin their education with training in this discipline). She also runs a weekly equine therapy program at Adobe Guadalupe for children afflicted with cerebral palsy. According to her, the children gain confidence and a sense of independence from being around and riding the quiet, patient ranch horses with which Marci matches them. Each child has a volunteer team working with her or him of up to three people – local people who donate their time and without whom this program would not be possible.

Tru Miller (right) escorts guests Ana María Orta and Eduardo Kalb on a tour of Adobe Guadalupe's property.

Guests staying at Adobe Guadalupe are offered the chance to tour the Valle de Guadalupe by horse, with rides ranging from one-to-two hours. As appealing as this sounds, I am not sure that I wouldn’t rather take a tour of Adobe’s beautiful winery and then watch the riders head into the vineyards while sitting in the elegant courtyard sipping Don Miller’s newest blend – Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier – called Jardin Magico. I also came to learn that Adobe Guadalupe is now extending the delicious offerings of its kitchen and winery not only to its guests but to the public, by reservation only, for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

I maintain that there is nothing like a romantic overnight get-away for Valentine’s Day. But, barring that, perhaps a lovely dinner and wine in Mexico’s wine country. And who knows…maybe there is a gentle-faced Azteca horse in my beloved’s future. If so, I will know where I can find one.

How to get to Adobe Guadalupe: From Highway 1 going towards Ensenada (the toll road), shortly past the toll booth, take Highway 3 towards Tecate. Go approximately eight miles and take the El Tigre road, on your left. You will take a right turn towards El Porvenir, going another 6.7 miles. (You will pass La Escuelita, the wine school, and you will go through an intersection. At the next stop sign, (Unidad Medica Familiar building) turn left and continue a half-mile further. Adobe Guadalupe is on your right.

How to contact Adobe Guadalupe: You can email info@adobeguadalupe.com; or call (646) 155-2094 or 155-2527.

Have you been to Baja California or elsewhere in Mexico? Maybe it’s time to take a visit to Mexico’s wine country!

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Mexico’s Wine Roots

By Carla White

Baja had its own mini-Gold Rush in the latter 1800s…but it didn’t pan out. Another story for another blog. However, just like Northern California, where there’s gold in them thar hills, there also seems to be very fertile soil. Today, instead of panning for gold, entrepreneurs are planting grape stock. This is Baja’s new ‘Gold Rush’…it’s liquid gold that can be grown sustainably, bottled and sold for anywhere from a few dollars to thousands of dollars. This precious substance is wine, and it has a long history in Baja.

Santo Tomas wine

Mexican wine-making began in 1524 (making Mexico the oldest wine producer in the Americas), when conqueror Hernan Cortes ordered every Spaniard with a land grant from the crown to plant 1,000 grape vines for every 100 Indians in his employ. The Spanish discovered that grapevines did well in Mexico; by the 17th century, wine exports from Spain to the New World had almost stopped. This wasn’t good for Spain, so in 1699, crotchety Charles II of Spain banned wine making in Mexico, with the exception of wine for Church purposes. From then until Mexico’s independence, wines were produced in the country on only a small scale, but that has now changed.

Wine production in Mexico has risen in both quantity and quality, especially since the 1980s. It has been painstakingly slow, in part because of high taxes and also because Mexico is not traditionally a wine-drinking country, but more oriented to beer, tequila and mezcal. However, interest in wine and wine regions has grown, most especially in Baja California, which has been winning international awards for its products. Here, over 90 percent of all Mexico’s wine is produced, mostly in the Valle de Guadalupe — Wine Route – with its more than 50 wineries.

Bodega Santo Tomas

(A great day trip south from Ensenada!)

The Baja wine conversation really begins with Santo Tomas winery. Although Bodego Santo Tomas was founded by Miguel Ormart and Francisco Andonegui in 1888, the original Misión grape vineyards and 100 olive trees were actually planted in the late 1700’s by missionaries and by Loreto Amador. General Abelardo Rodriquez purchased the lands in 1932, transforming them into a thriving high-production operation producing more than half-a-million cases of wine annually. Today, under the directorship of Juan Pablo Núñez and the masterful hands of winemaker Laura Zamora, those very old vines and newer ones are generating a wide variety of grapes, resulting in some of Mexico’s finest vintages.

Santo Tomas produces a scope of internationally award-winning labels, including the reserve line known as El Viento; Tardo; and Misión and Misión 1888, Pixtos-Kanté and sparkling wines. Although all of the Santo Tomas wines are unique, one that particularly seems to strike a chord with its audience is the premium Duetto, a combination of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% tempranillo.

Santo Tomas has an impressive history–one that is conveyed enjoyably at the very cool tours that the winery offers of its Valle de Santo Tomas operation, about 45 minutes south of Ensenada on Highway 1. Tours range from a basic tour to an expensive and lengthy VIP tour (which includes a great wine-pairing meal). All involve a trip through the vineyards on a tractor-pulled taxi, with stops at wine barrels that are located throughout the property that denote a particular type of grape. At one stop, tasters might sip a merlot; at another, a viognier, and so forth. It is quite sensual to experience the earth, the sun and the wind as you actually taste the wines that they produce.

You can also visit the historic Santo Tomas winery and its renowned La Embotelladora Vieja restaurant at 666 Avenida Miramar in downtown Ensenada. For information about wines or about scheduling tours, call marketing director Iván Cortez at his Ensenada cell number, (646) 151-9333 or email him at icortez@grupopando.com

Ensenada