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A Night of Pizza, Beer, Music and Art in Ensenada

A night of pizza, beer and art in Ensenada:  La Stella!

A night of pizza, beer, music and art took place at the end of August during La Stella Session’s first installment at Distrito Barra Pública in Ensenada.

The love for music and design of two enterprising youngsters culminated in an event that showcased local talent for hours.

 

La Stella Pizza and Distrito Barra Pública were the hosts of the night while people gathered at the bar and admired the exhibition of pizza boxes decked by guest visual artists like Acamonchi, Alberto Nájera, Anita Mejía, Cactus, El Juan, Emiliano Barajas, Enrique Alcántar (TR3Z), Esther Gamez, Kathy Pedrín, Kikeino, Roberto Mora and Rodolfo Gutiérrez; the participating bands got set and started to play just outside of the bar.

Reptilianos, Ocean Noise, Hipogrifos and Fading Leds, the local bands that participated in the “La Stella Mixtape 02” compilation, played live for hours for the delight of the audience.

La Stella Mixtape is a project of designer Luis Ariza, we’ll talk about him on another occasion but you can get to know him at La Stella Pizza.

 

For now, visual artists and bands from Tijuana can start pondering their contribution to the second installment of La Stella Sessions that is shaping up to become a tradition of the port.

Photos by Torres Photoworks 

Original Text: Gabriela Vidauri, Binomio 1+4 info@b1mas4.com http://b1mas4.com

Sandiegored.com is designed as the first portal in Spanish that provides information/entertainment and news in SanDiego and the Tijuana / Baja California region. Our main objective is that you find all the information that you need in SanDiegoRed and BECOME  your preferred portal. We are committed to working tirelessly to meet your expectations and deliver the best website in Spanish. Contact SanDiegoRed.com or call (858) 454-511.

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurantshotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year.

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The Blue Moon at Playa Saldamando Campground

by Martina Dobesh

Below me, the Pacific Ocean is blazing with sunshine; light is bouncing off of everything. The wind has whipped up frothy waves, forcing the pelicans to fly its currents. I and a few hearty women friends have come to Playa Saldamando to ‘get away’…although we laugh, because we live in Baja, and really there isn’t anything to get away from.

Playa Saldamando is 15 minutes north of Ensenada, and just an hour and a half from the US/Mexico border. The toll road clings to the side of the mountain, curving around the shimmering bay hundreds of feet below. This area is known as Salsipuedes, or “leave if you can.” It got its name before the toll road was built, when fishermen would risk the nearly vertical descent to go fishing. Going down was scary, but the trek back up gave it its name.
This is the greatest place for a safe family holiday, for guys that like to surf or ocean fish, and for women (like my group) to retreat to, as the location has a perfect safety factor: Although it is right off the highway, it is below the road, and there are security gates that are locked at 10 p.m.

 

Photo courtesy of Playa Saldamando

The campground stretches out along the shoreline for several miles. Instead, we have chosen a little comfort for our two-day stay: A 24-foot trailer which has a large enclosed front room, and a covered patio providing shade. It’s August, and the ocean breeze is delightful. We are all experienced campers, but this saves us from having to pack and unpack all the camping equipment. In the travel trailer off the living area, there is a tiny kitchen with propane stove, and most importantly an indoor bathroom.
Most of the time we spend out on the covered patio with the endless expanse of ocean and talk about non-ordinary things, things that we don’t often talk about with others. One woman took a long hike to discover a fresh water spring where fox are known to den. Others of us laugh a lot about how life had brought us here to Baja, and why we have no intentions of leaving. Our desire for tonight is to be far away from ambient light so we can see the rising of the Blue Moon (a reference to the third full moon in a season that has four full moons, instead of the usual three).

We dine on bountiful food, and suddenly the sun is setting and we have enjoyed a totally timeless day.

We light the campfire and wait. One woman is singing and playing her box drum. Her voice and presence is worthy of a stage and a much bigger audience. Now, the top of the luminescent orb is peaking up over the mountain top. Sounds of appreciation issue from us all. Very soon the Blue Moon is hanging suspended, bathing all of us in its glow.

All night long we follow its transit overhead, no obstruction gets in the way. Predawn, the moonlight sends a path all the way to the beach. Just before sunrise, I am up in time to see it glowing pink on the horizon, and then disappear into the sea.

As we are packing up in the morning we are already making plans to return. We feel like we have been on a week’s vacation in another part of the world called the ‘Paradise of Baja California’.

 

 

How to get to Playa Saldamando: It is an easy access place, at kilometer 94, approximately 50 minutes south of Tijuana, and just 10 minutes from Ensenada.
What does it cost?: Car and Day use is $13 per day and $15 car camping overnight. Tent Trailer and motor homes rates $17 per night for 4 people. Trailer rentals $35 to $55. (To maintain peace and quiet, there are no motorcycles or ATVs allowed. No firecrackers. Dogs are to be kept on a leash).
How can I stay there:  Advanced reservations are suggested for summer weekends. Off season there is no problem with finding a spot. For reservations, from the U.S., call 619-857-9242.

Camping is a great way to enjoy the Pacific Ocean.  But so is staying in a hotel or vacation rental!  Check it out…


Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about localrestaurants,hotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year.  For more information, please call toll-free (US/CAN) 855-BAJA-411 or email us at info@baja.com.

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Monte Xanic, the new generation of wine in Baja

Hans Backhoff continues the legend started by his father 25 years ago

Some 20 years ago, the wine industry in Mexico was going through one of its toughest crises. The aperture to free trade had left over 20 wine companies virtually unprotected against imported wines, mostly French and Spanish ones. Only the strongest survived — four or five, in all. It was during those times that Monte Xanic was born, looking to introduce premium, high quality wine to the public. Back then, Monte Xanic was the drink with which NAFTA was celebrated; it was also the beverage of choice for the visits of John Paul II as well as Benedict XVI to Mexico. Now it is one the best known Mexican high-quality wine producers in Mexico and in the world.

“When we began, we started with the idea of making things in a different way. The problem was that we knew we could make good wine but we didn’t know if we could sell it,” noted Hans Backhoff.   But they did.  Backhoff noted that their Monte Xanic strategy “worked and we hit it off:  Mexico adopted our wine as its iconic high-status wine. Now, 25 years later, everybody is involved in this new market and the region has over 120 wineries. It’s a movement made not by Monte Xanic alone, but by the entire region. And as a region that is what we are focused on: conquering the world.”

Hans Backhoff, born in 1977, is from the newest generation of producers from the Guadalupe Valley. He’s an enologist, biochemist and has a master’s degree in administration and marketing. He is the current CEO of Monte Xanic, a company started by his father 25 years ago. When he returned to Mexico after completing his studies in France (his thesis was performed in Château Lafite Rothschild, perhaps the most prestigious wine producer in the world), he looked for a job not in Monte Xanic –his own company- but in the rival wineries, where he was turned down for being considered a “spy.” Perhaps all the better for Monte Xanic…  Backhoff is confident in his expertise and talents, and brings them to bear for his family’s business.

Mexico’s wine industry is still in the beginning stages, even though it dates back to 1800. During recent years, however, there has been a transformation in the way society understands wine, a change occurring mainly among young people. “We are living exciting times, the per capita consumption is still very small… half a liter is nothing. What’s interesting is that that half liter has tripled in 10 years and the market is growing two numbers each year,” notes Backhoff.  Now, wine has become a popular topic, something to talk about in a wider sector of the public.

 

There are many other things changing in the wine industry besides the cultural aspects of it. Evidently, there are technological innovations in grapevine cultivation, but there are also other phenomena inconceivable until very recently.

“Two weeks ago we had a tasting through Twitter and we involved 7,000 people; it is the biggest tasting event ever held in Mexico and Latin America. It was open to public, anyone who wanted to join in, could; the only thing they had to do was buy the three wines to be tasted, they could do so in groups or by themselves. We went to Paris, Netherlands, Argentina, USA… in Mexico we were in Ensenada, Mérida, Cancún, Monterrey, Guadalajara, DF… and at every location people would group and film themselves using their computers,” said Backhoff.   “It was really cool, something that had never been done before, we unveiled something very important in the industry, we will see more stuff like that. The important thing is that we were able to communicate everything we wanted to 7,000 people in less than two hours. It was impressive. There are political movements and a ton of things being done through social media, just imagine if the same is done for an industry so low in resources.”

On August 5, Monte Xanic hosted its traditional Concierto del Crepúsculo to celebrate the wine harvest festival. In previous years it was Baja California’s Orchestra the one livening up the concert, but this year Hans stepped forward bringing Raven String Quartet, a very talented all-female band that plays from classical music to contemporary pop. “It is part of the generational transformation we are witnessing. Wine has always been an elitist product, a luxury… but it isn’t like that. We are interested in popularizing it, in having people know it’s not only for the older folks, it’s for the young people too.”

 

“Our concert was for people to learn. Our generation will talk to our children and say, ‘I remember back when there were about 100 wineries in the Valley,’ but that is going to change.  Not only here but throughout the region including Tijuana. It’s part of a bigger movement that is growing every day and we are living it.”

This article was submitted by San Diego Red with additional editorial contributions by Baja.com.

Sandiegored.com is designed as the first portal in Spanish that provides information/entertainment and news in SanDiego and the Tijuana / Baja California region. Our main objective is that you find all the information that you need in SanDiegoRed and BECOME  your preferred portal. We are committed to working tirelessly to meet your expectations and deliver the best website in Spanish. Contact SanDiegoRed.com or call (858) 454-511.

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurantshotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year.

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Ensenada: Wine Capital of Latin America?

Museum of Vine and Wine:  A signature facility for Baja California.

Bottle collection displayed on the first floor of the Museum of Grape and Wine in the Guadalupe Valley.

ENSENADA- Just after two months of opening, it has already received more than 20,000 visitors.

Last Friday, Mexico’s president, Felipe Calderón officially inaugurated the Museum of Vine and Wine (Museo de la Vid y el Vino), located in the heart of the Guadalupe Valley, a place dedicated to promoting the region, increasing awareness of the valley’s history within Ensenada and promoting its burgeoning wine industry.

The property, donated by Don Luis Agustín Cetto, extends 2.7 hectares and is adjacent to Highway 3, the Ensenada-Tecate road, so it’s easily accessible to visitors.

The project represents a hugh private and public investment, and it is anticipated that the building itself will become fundamental to helping establish the Ruta del Vino (the Wine Route) as a landmark in Mexico.  Baja California and Ensenada are well on track to being Latin America’s ‘Wine Capital’.

Museum director Gabrial Díaz García de León explained that the property is divided in several areas.

The first floor displays the history, ranging from the first traces of wine in human history to the missions arrival to Baja California. There are also halls dedicated to the “industry, identity and art” of grape and wine in the region.

Inside, there is an important collection of wine bottles and objects used to produce the beverage as well as paintings.

Exhibitions and displays were under the purview of the Autonomous University of Baja California (UABC), the only university with an Enology School in all of Mexico.

In the upper area there’s a space available for events with a panoramic view to the Guadalupe Valley.

Architect Eduardo Arjona, from Ensenada, designed the spectacular modern structure that takes advantage of the vistas that surround the museum in all directions…however, the actual construction took nearly a year. The walls are made from local stone cut by craftsmen from the south of Mexico, who lived in the area for four months. More than 300 people worked to create this emblematic edifice that will remain a hallmark of Mexico’s wine country for decades to come.

Díaz García de León defined the museum as “contemporary and self-sufficient.” From bird’s eye view, the structure is shaped like a V, for ‘vid’ and ‘vino’: grapevine and wine, respectively, in Spanish.

For Juan Tintos Funcke, Tourism Secretariat of Baja California, the museum adds another element to Ensenada’s vast tourism resources and it also stands as a source of pride for residents of the area.

 

The Guadalupe Valley produces around 18 million liters of wine a year, 66 percent of which is exported. Nearly 90 percent of the wine produced in the whole country comes from Baja California.

“We needed a place like this where all the history, background and the connection of the wine industry with Baja California’s history could come together” added Funcke.

Besides the historic content, he emphasized that the museum means a new location for conventions, tasting and gastronomic events, all of which will give a boost to the area.

He recalled last year when the Wine Route was awarded as one Mexico’s most important touristic routes, according to W Radio.

In the inauguration ceremony, president Calderón, accompanied by Baja California’s governor, José Guadalupe Osuna Millán, announced a program in support of the wine industry that will have an initial fund of 50 million Mexican pesos (nearly four million dollars) to help local producers in areas like training, investment projects, research and production.

For Luis Agustín Cetto, the arrival of this corner dedicated to history is an insignia that will be the starting point for thousands of visitors.

“There’s finally an icon of the Wine Route,” said the president of the Museum of Grape and Wine Council. “I hope that it will help the grape growing and wine production of the region even more impetus to prosper.”

The Museum of Vine and Wine is open Tuesday-Sunday, from 9 am to 5 pm.

This article was submitted by San Diego Red with additional editorial contributions by Baja.com.

Sandiegored.com is designed as the first portal in Spanish that provides information/entertainment and news in SanDiego and the Tijuana / Baja California region. Our main objective is that you find all the information that you need in SanDiegoRed and BECOME  your preferred portal. We are committed to working tirelessly to meet your expectations and deliver the best website in Spanish. Contact SanDiegoRed.com or call (858) 454-511.

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurantshotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year.

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Mexican Wine and The American Woman: Put a Label on It!

by Jo Ann Knox Martino

“Accept what life offers you and try to drink from every cup. All wines should be tasted; some should only be sipped, but with others, drink the whole bottle.”

― Paulo CoelhoBrida

 

 This is a quote I live by, and it plays a part in every day of my life as a winemaker in Ensenada’s Valle de Guadalupe.  It is an exciting time for me — and it was especially so as I got ready to put my wines out in front of the public.   The wine – a Zinfandel — was finally bottled and ready.  But what to name it?

Many friends were being helpful by making suggestions: “Sinfandel,” “Oso Zinful,” “Joanna Jones” (which had been my nickname and business name for years – you know, Indiana’s sister), “J Martino,” (which is my family name and was  my brother’s suggestion), “Borrego Negro,” which means ‘Black Sheep’.  Why Black Sheep, you ask?  Perhaps because I am one of the only American women making wine in Valle de Guadalupe.  I thought it was a bit cute and certainly true.

So, I started having fun designing a label and asking friends what they thought of the name “Black Sheep.”  All of the Americans I asked liked it but would Mexicans?  I asked my good friend and tango instructor Humberto what he thought. I wanted to make a decision based on both Mexican and American cultural reactions.

“So you’re calling your wine a black animal?” Humberto asked, startled.  Obviously, it just did not translate. Hmmmm. Back to the drawing board. Suddenly it hit me like a lightning bolt…tango, of course! My other passion. I should marry my two passions together. Wine and tango. What could be better?

After trying out many names with the tango theme, I decided upon “Solo Tango” (“Only Tango”) for the Zinfandel and “Two2Tango” for my blend. Of course these names were well received amongst my fellow tangueros (tango dancers).  But a name is just a name…until it becomes a label!  That’s when my two dear artist friends, Humberto Rivera (yes, the tango instructor) and Francisco Cabello stepped in, creating original artwork that could just as easily be hung in a gallery as placed on a wine bottle!

I proudly presented my wine at our milonga in Rosarito. (Milonga has two definitions: One is a style of tango music and dance and the other is a fiesta where tango is danced. Our tango community hosts a milonga each month and tangueros from the other municipalities, Tijuana and Ensenada, come join us for a night of festivity and dance. Recently we were lucky to have a lovely Argentinian woman, Monica, join our group. She sings all of the traditional Tango music. Once a year, Humberto throws an anniversary milonga which will be coming up in August. This will be our 5th year and it will be held at Las Rocas Hotel.  It will be a special Tango Spectacular with performances by accomplished dancers and musicians and open to the public to come enjoy and participate if they choose. Who would have thought our small group which formed over five years ago would still be dancing.)

With their tango-oriented labels, the wines were welcomed at the milonga.  For me it was a moment of celebration:  I couldn’t help but think that, like grape vines, the seeds of our tango/wine partnership were planted years before when Francisco Cabello said to me, “I paint tango. One day I will dance it.”  He does, indeed.  Now, my friends and partners dance with me — and all of that is represented in the two labels that represent my wines.

Just as Paulo Coelho meant, experiencing life at all of its levels is the only way you will know which part you want to just sip and which part you want to indulge in fully.  For me, an American woman making wine in Mexico, I am drinking the whole bottle.

 

Jo Ann Knox Martino is a former film producer, now winemaker, living in Baja’s wine country.  Stay posted to read her occasional blogs about an American  woman-winemaker living in Baja.

Going wine tasting in Mexico’s wine country?  Call Baja.com at our toll-free number to find out where to stay and what to taste!

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about localrestaurants, hotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year.  For more information, please call toll-free (US/CAN) 855-BAJA-411 or email us at info@baja.com.

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LAJA Restaurant : Chef Jair Tellez’s homage to Valle de Guadalupe

August 15th , 2012  By Kristin Díaz de Sandi of Life & Food. Reprinted with permission from SanDiegoRed.com 

A rustic setting in Baja’s Wine Country with ingredients that are true to the land.

The Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California has to be one of my favorite places in the world. Yes, you read that right… the world. We venture down there at all different times of the year, but the summer is when you can really feel a different kind of energy. There are the Fiestas De La Vendimia that bring in a lot of people, as well as the weather just being simply beautiful. It does reach higher temperatures out there, but that’s nothing that some shade and a nice cold glass of white or rose wine can’t fix.
There are so many wonderful places to wine and dine at in el valle, and they all have their own special qualities. Dining at Laja restaurante by Chef Jair Tellez was a true joy. There is no better feeling than gaining inspiration from a meal that you have just enjoyed. Baja California sources such amazing ingredients, and their olive oil seriously has a special place in my heart. I will be sure to mention that olive oil again, when I tell you about the second course, and perhaps even before that.

The restaurant itself is just an absolute beauty. An open barn with warm hardwood flooring, gorgeous ceiling beams, and stone on the walls. I could easily picture myself living in a house very much like this in el Valle de Guadalupe, and that would actually equate to a dream of mine. Their menu is printed on a piece of paper daily, which I absolutely love. I know not everyone writes down notes while they eat, but for those that do, this is genius. The produce for the menu is grown in their garden, and they also make all of their own bread. You can choose to have your meal consist of either 4 or 8 courses. The portions for each dish will coincide with the number of courses you decide on, but you can always order seconds of a certain course if you absolutely fall in love with it.

We were presented with all eight of the courses, during our dining experience at Laja. Before I knew it I was being poured a chilled glass of their house Sauvignon Blanc, and a basket of fresh crusty bread was placed in front of us. Accompanying the bread, is a mini carafe filled with one of the best olive oils that I have ever tasted. I mean honestly, I could drink the stuff. It is light and slightly fruity.

The eight course journey started off with a bowl of cream of eggplant soup, that was garnished with flecks of jamon serrano. The salty bite, and slight crunch from the jamon serrano was a pleasant addition to the creamy soup.

Following that, I have to say was a favorite of mine from the afternoon. A mixed green salad with mini heirloom tomatoes, and cured meat. The ingredients are all tossed in that luscious olive oil that I spoke of earlier, and then lightly seasoned. That olive oil combined with the fresh produce just hit the spot. The simplicity and flavors together, just made my tonsils do a little happy dance.

The third course, sautéed shrimp rested on top of a white radish puree with avocado and cured vegetables. The acidity of the vegetables was a nice compliment to the plump shrimp, and creamy avocado.

The fourth course were Cannelloni filled with beef, corn, and mushrooms soaking up the beef broth. There was just a bit of parmesan cheese that created a slight crust on the tops of the noodles, which to me added a nice element of saltiness to the overall dish.

We were half way through the courses, and there was plenty of anticipation as to what the next dishes would unfold. The next dish to grace the table with its presence, was a sautéed filet of Rock Cod that was surrounded by a romanesco puree, fennel, baby squash, bok choy, peppers, and drizzled with a purple onion and beef foot vinaigrette. The supple fish was cooked perfectly, with a nice crisp skin. The ingredients on the plate were all so colorful, and working my way around to each component made each flavor come on out its own.

The final savory course had both my husband and I nodding our heads in unison. You know that moment at the table when you both simultaneously agree that this could be that one dish that comes out just a bit above the others. Local oven roasted lamb that fell apart the second my fork and knife touched it. They even bring you a beautiful Laguiole knife to use for this dish, which I absolutely adore, but it didn’t have to work that hard. The creamy potatoes and spinach were lovely as well, but the lamb was the real star here folks.

The last two courses consisted of two different desserts. The first was a velvety panna cotta with nectarine sorbet. The Nectarine sorbet was incredibly refreshing, and perfect for the summer time. My spoon just glided through the panna cotta leaving it almost effortless to construct the ideal bite.

The last course of the meal was an apple tartaleta. A buttery crust topped with apples and english cream, sharing the plate with a scoop of almond ice cream. This dessert had me longing for the crisp cool air of the fall months.
The entire experience at Laja left me inspired, and already longing for a trip back. The surrounding scenery, the food, and wine all make for an incredible time.

Visit LAJA Restaurant’s website here.

Map and Directions

Want to find out more about cuisine in Baja California?  Read about it here!

Kristin and Antonio blog at Life & Food and you can follow them on Twitter at @lifefoodblog and Facebook.

Sandiegored.com is designed as the first portal in Spanish that provides information/entertainment and news in SanDiego and the Tijuana / Baja California region. Our main objective is that you find all the information that you need in SanDiegoRed and BECOME  your preferred portal. We are committed to working tirelessly to meet your expectations and deliver the best website in Spanish. Contact SanDiegoRed.com or call (858) 454-511.

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurantshotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year.

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At One with Nature: Cuatrocuatros Retreat in Ensenada’s Wine Region

by Carla White

 

Magnificent view from Cuatrocuatros. Photo by Valeria Rivas.

If you have ever had the chance to visit Hugo D’Acosta’s vineyards in the remote foothills of the Pyrenees Orientales in France (close to the Spanish border), you begin to understand the concept of ocean breezes, rocky hillsides and verdant grape vines.  And it starts to make sense that, hundreds of feet above the Pacific Ocean in the wine region of Mexico, draped across 144 acres of rugged hillsides and dipping into peaceful vales and canyons, is a place called Cuatrocuatros to which guests can retreat and be one with nature.

Here, some 40 acres of vines laden with grapes flourish.  And here, too, away from the hustle and hurry of cities and traffic, visitors can celebrate gastronomy with gourmet food (in a Bohemian canvas-covered, five-star restaurant), regional wines, and in the company of hawks, hummingbirds, pelicans, and even Bura deer (which are endangered and protected in this region).  Olive trees and scrub oaks dot the acreage of Cuatrocuatros, and even as guests explore the property – which is at once a farm, a ranch and an epic environmental eco-retreat – the day-to-day activities of ranch-hands and innkeepers go on quietly around them.  It is a harmonious symphony of people integrating seamlessly into their surroundings.

Luxury cabañas – wood, steel and cotton tents on raised platforms – are flanked with comfy lounge chairs; their interiors are elegantly designed and include everything thatwould be found in a boutique hotel:  mini-bars, fireplaces, plush beds, and joyously light and luxe bathrooms, some of which even have small zen-ish garden patios.

Unifying people with the ocean and earth is what drives Cuatrocuatros.  Conceptualized and built by Mexican architects, craftspeople and workers, it is a unique destination perfectly located near Ensenada’s Valle de Guadalupe wine region and close to other activities for which the area is known:  hiking, kayaking, boating, sport-fishing, golfing and more. On the other hand…why leave this hidden place, where wines crafted by highly talented wine-makers and enologists are available at your desire; foods created with organic herbs and produce and utilizing the freshest seafood and most select meats are served at your command, and where you can spend hours and days enjoying the bounty of nature that encompasses you?

How to get there:  Cuatrocuatros is located in El Tigre village, in Ensenada municipality, Baja California State. 13 kilometers from the city of Ensenada; 130 kilometers from San Diego, 113 kilometers from Tijuana and 30 kilometers from Valle de Guadalupe. Cuatrocuatros is a few miles east of El Sauzal (the fishing village to the north of Ensenada), in El Tigre, at km. 89 off the Tijuana-Ensenada free road.  It is a short journey from Ensenada by taxi, shuttle, or car.  There are also landing strips in the area for helicopters or private planes.  

Want to enjoy the wine region amongst the vines?  Find out more, at Baja.com.

 

 

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurants, hotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year.

 

 

 

 

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What are Five Top Things to Do in One Day in Ensenada? (Wine Tasting x 5 Comes to Mind!)

By Carla White

It’s warm and sunny in Ensenada…and hot in the nearby wine country, the Valle de Guadalupe.  If you are visiting — have surfed, shopped and otherwise tapped out your energy resources — what other things can you do to while away hours in Mexico’s paradise?  Well, here are some ideas. They might seem a bit redundant, but this is just one creative approach.

1. Wine Tasting.

2. Wine Tasting at Veronica Santiago’s wine cave, Mina Penelope.

3. Wine Tasting with Veronica Santiago and her sister Maria Theresa in the wine cave.

4.  Wine Tasting at Mina Penelope with a crusty baguette and home-made cheese and pesto.

5. Tasting Veronica Santiago’s wine a little later in the day at Ochento’s Pizza in the wine country.

Julio 14 wine tasting with Veronica Santiago

Julio 14 wine tasting with Veronica Santiago

Okay, I was correct:  It is a bit redundant, but then is there anything wrong with repeating something you enjoy?

There is little doubt that you will, indeed, enjoy Julio 14, Veronica Santiago’s 2010 Syrah Grenache that is the signature wine she produces with her partner Nathan Malagon.  The light, fruity vino, with hints of coffee and caramel, was aged for 10 month in new American oak barrels.  It is a nice change from so many of the powerful reds that are produced in Baja California, and it has a balance that makes it a great pairing with many types of cuisines.

“We ferment the batches (of Syrah and Grenache) separately, and then bring them together to test and sample, until we find the right blend,” said Santiago, who added that the name does not reflect a bottling date or anything to do with the wine’s production.  Rather, it represents the coincidence of birth:  Nathan and Veronica were both born on July 14; now, it is guaranteed that there will be plenty of wine for the celebration.

Wine tasting at Veronica Santiago's cellar

Wine tasting at Veronica's cellar

We were sitting on the patio of the Santiago ranch in early July when we tasted Julio 14.  The soft, rolling hills of the 10 hectare property were abundant with lush vines in their full ‘green-ness’, and fruit trees heavy with peaches.  The hot summer air was laced with rosemary and a faint buzzing of bees tickled the quiet afternoon.

Santiago and her sister, Maria Theresa (owner of the European-style bakeries Hogaza-Hogaza, the popularity of which is rising faster than yeast dough in an oven), passed around fresh-baked bread and hand-crafted cheese to accompany the wine.  Santiago explained that she is the first in the family to become a wine-maker.  She elected to pursue a Bachelor’s degree in Monterrey, Mexico, studying food science and in the process became intrigued with the science of wine making.  In a bold move, she decided to pursue a Master’s Degree at the University of Adelaide in Southern Australia, after which she worked at a winery in Australia’s renowned Barossa wine valley.

“They let me do everything there,” she said, noting that she had the chance to get her hands and talents involved in every aspect of wine production from growing to bottling to understanding marketing.

Upon returning to the US, Santiago worked for the boutique Joseph Phelps winery in the Napa Valley, establishing her reputation and further honing her skills.

In the meantime, her mom was quietly at work.  Anticipating Santiago’s return to Ensenada (and keeping her fingers crossed that Santiago would not be deterred from her winemaking course by something frivolous like getting married), mom purchased the ranch property and began buying vines.  When Santiago showed up at the family farm, it was time to start a-plantin’…thus rooting herself in a career as a Valle de Guadalupe winemaker.   Today, with three hectares of vines planted, her varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvedre, Syrah, Merlot, Grenache, Tempranillo, Aglianico, Montepulciano, Nebbiolo and Carmenere.  The vineyards are nurtured with compost and pest-control is achieved with a sulfur spray.

Mina Penelope wine cellar

Mina Penelope wine cellar

“We want everything we produce to be fresh, natural, and sustainable,” said Santiago.  “We are all for supporting the environment.”

We toured Santiago’s wine cave, a cool, stone-clad structure beneath the family home.  We bought several bottles directly from her (as she prefers to sell) and then we toddled off into the wine valley, heading to nearby Ochento’s Pizza to savor yet one more Julio 14 with a Mediterranean pizza pie.  Late afternoon sunbeams pierced green through the palm-sized grape leaves that draped the arbor on Ochento’s patio, and music filled the air.  Pouring the last drops of Syrah Grenache into our glasses, there was a group sigh of satisfaction…now, what would our sixth top thing to do in Ensenada be?

Julio 14 Wine

Julio 14 Wine

To find out more about Veronica Santiago’s Julio 14, contact her directly: email veropsc14@hotmail.com.  And, to find out more things to do in Ensenada, visit the Ensenada activities directory.  For more about the wine country, Ensenada and Rosarito Beach, read the Baja Review.  

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about localrestaurants, hotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year.

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Just Another South Swell in Baja

By Serge Dedina

Surfers chase recent swells in Baja!

 

The surf has been dismal in Southern California this summer so far (we had some fun south swells in May). So, finally we had a little 3-5′ swell to light up reefs and points south of the border.

That’s when the boys and I headed down to northern Baja to catch a few waves with our surfing exchange student Eneko, who is Basque. Let’s just say he thoroughly enjoyed his first trip to Mexico.

South Swell Baja

Wouldn’t be a Mexico surf trip without dogs following the boys into the lineup.

 

Just Another South Swell in Baja Serge Dedina

Daniel gets a fun one–the light was perfect in the afternoon for photos.

 

Just Another South Swell in Baja

Israel on an inside corner.

 

Just Another South Swell in Baja Eneko

Eneko on the move.

Just Another South Swell in Baja

A post surf session pit stop at El Trailero in El Sauzal is required for northern Baja surf trips.

Do you have any Northern Baja surfing experiences or stories to share? Join the discussion in the comments.

Serge Dedina is the Executive Director of WiLDCOAST, an international conservation team that conserves coastal marine ecosystems and wildlife. He is the author of Wild Sea and Saving the Gray Whale and took his first trip to Baja back in 1969. 

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurants, hotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year.

 

 

 

 

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The Brew that is True: Baja’s New Take on Cerveza

By Ashley Sokol

Agua Mala beers, not complete without their jellyfish logo.

Suddenly, Mexican beer is tasting different. The cerveza offerings coming out of Baja are turning the perception of Mexican beer on its head.  Not only that, these new beers and brewers reflect Mexico’s heightened awareness of environmental issues and desire to be “green.”

In the past five years, craft brewing in Baja has exploded into a vital business.  In Ensenada, alone, what was once a handful of artisan brewers has become more than 100. Most of these are still working in the home-brew stage, but some are creating honest nano-breweries (less than 43 gallons) and others are on their ways to creating microbreweries.

One such brewery is Cerveceria Agua Mala. Spearheading the Baja brew movement, Nathaniel Schmidt started like most other brewers — in the kitchen, until being kicked out by his wife. This might have been the best thing that ever happened to him. He started to grow and produce some of the best beers in Baja, everything from a crisp lager to an assertively hoppy IPA. The name Agua Mala is a play on words in Spanish, meaning jellyfish or bad water. Based on unbiased reviews, it is anything but!

As Carlos Cohen of Cerveceria Marinera puts it, “The key to good beer is to have a desirable product and to always be consistent.”

This goal of consistency is true for most trades, but it is very difficult to achieve in the nano-brewing industry, especially in Baja. One of the hurdles the Baja brewers face is having to import almost all of their ingredients and equipment.

According to Agua Mala’s Schmidt, who currently has to drive to San Diego, California from Ensenada each time he needs products, “It’s difficult to be ‘green’ when you have to drive two hours each way for all of your raw materials.”  His dream is to eventually create a beer that is 100 percent organic and locally sourced.  He even wants to mastermind a gluten-free beer.    Schmidt notes that he hopes to build his microbrewery in 2013, making it completely environmentally friendly, utilizing solar energy, and repurposing water used in the beer production process for the family garden as well as using waste grain products for composting.

Another issue to maintaining consistency is that brewing is a quantity business; it costs less to brew large batches of beer than to brew small amounts.  To do that requires a large investment in larger equipment, so it’s a vicious circle.  As Cohen points out, “It’s harder to produce a consistent product when you are trying to recreate it one small batch at a time.” Even so, Cerveceria Marinera seems to have done a fine job on creating consistent quality in their beers (try their honey ale if you can find it).

Mexican taxes are also a factor for beer sellers. Forty percent of the purchase price goes straight to the government, and the permits to produce and sell beer are very hard to get and expensive. Even with all of these obstacles, great beers are still in the making.

As Roberto Albarran from Border Psycho brewery in Tijuana says, “We started brewing for our love of beer and food.” Border Psycho currently produces 50 BBL’s (brewers barrels), which is equivalent to 1500 gallons of delicious craft brew on a small three-barrel system, which is no small feat.

Cerveceria Fauna from Mexicali is not yet on the market, but much like the other brewers, they are meticulous about their recipes and want to make sure they produce a consistent and exceptional product. They are focusing mostly on Belgian style brews – the expectation is that we can anticipate great things to comefrom this brewery.

Where does one get to try these great examples of fermented grain you might ask?  Check it out!  July is Beer Brewing Month in Tijuana — read about it here.

Ensenada has an excellent Baja Beer Fest that occurs once a year usually in the month of March. This past year, more than 40 small breweries participated.  If you are looking for something a little closer to home and sooner on the calendar, you are sure to get your fill this month. Tijuana will be having two beer events simultaneously on July 13-14. One will be held at the Caliente Hippodrome and is sponsored by the Tijuana brewery and the other will be held on Revolution Avenue and is sponsored by the ACABC (association for craft brewers on Baja California). Both promise to have great beers, food and music; you to decide where to imbibe.

The only sad note to this beer revelry is that none of these beers are currently available in the U.S., so I recommend you choose your beers wisely as you can only take home about three bottles per person across the border.

Where can you find these beers in their local habitat?

Here is where you might find some of northern Baja’s favorite beers, in restaurants and pubs throughout the region.  For more information on any of these, visit the Ensenada and Tijuana restaurants director.

Agua Mala: Ophelia’s, Corazon de Tierra, Laja, Flor de Calabaza, Wendlandt, La Contra, Pelicanos Gastropub, Beerbox La Paz, Muelle Tres

Marinera: Laja, Beerbox La Paz, Distrito bar, Pelicanos Gastropub, Flor de Calabaza, La Cava de Marcelo, Wendlant

Border Psycho: BeerBox TJ, la Tasca, Wendlandt, La Tasquiota, Distrito, Pelicanos Gastropub.

Fauna: currently at a Baja Beer Fest near you.

So, if you’re looking for something familiar, go ahead and have a Corona.  But if you want a little extra personality in your pint, try something different south of the Border. Be one of the first to find out about Baja’s new take on  cerveza.

Many of the local brewers are happy to offer tours and personal tasting by appointment.  Contact info for the breweries mentioned:

Cerveceria Agua Mala: Nathaniel@aguamala.com.mx

Cerveceria Marinera: Cerveceriamarinera@gmail.com

Cerveceria Border Psycho: Psychobrew@gmail.com

Cerveceria Fauna: Nahual@fororeptiles.org

Brew up some fun of your own and visit Baja’s beer country!  Don’t miss any of the July festivities of Beer Brewing Month in Tijuana.  And for more information on artisan beer in Baja Sur, check out the Baja Brewing Company on Baja.com.

 

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