East Cape

Have A Baja Moment! East Cape Sees Signs of Summer

Dawn Pier — Thu, 16 May 2013 16:00:00 +0000

Have A Baja Moment! East Cape Sees Signs of Summer

Seasonal changes in the tropical desert may not be as overt as those in more temperate regions, but to the observant they give measure to the passage of time. Recently, on the drive to town along the bumpy Palo Escopeta Road, I noticed subtle changes to the scenery. Trees had dropped the leaves they’d grown thanks to last years’ rain, coloring the landscape grey where before it was verdant. In contrast, the branches of the tree known locally as Palo Escopeta held out thick bunches of tiny greenish white flowers, backed by new bright green leaves. I noticed the air coming through the window was warmer and the sun striking my arm was strong.

A sure sign that spring is in the air! Mating Coachwhip snakes. Image: Tom Sterne

Spring came to the East Cape late this year, the weather remaining unseasonably cool throughout April. Now that it’s May, daily highs have shot up and the sea has begun to warm. Two weeks ago water temperatures were cold enough that I still needed to wear a full wetsuit. Now I’m over-warm in my “shorty” suit by mid-morning. But water temps sometimes plummet in July, making wetsuit choice a poor indicator of the arrival of warm weather in Baja. One of the best, however, is the reappearance of our cold-blooded cousins, the reptiles. After hibernating underground over winter, the S-shaped trails of snakes winding their way across the road have become an increasingly common sight, and sometimes their creator is there to be seen as well, basking in the sun or moving at a speed dependent on ambient temperatures and species preference. Several rattlesnakes, Coachwhip snakes and a brilliant green snake I have yet to identify crossed my path in the last week alone.

Around these parts, however, the most obvious harbinger of warmer weather has to be the appearance of a multitude of Western Side-Blotched Lizards (Uta stansburiana elegans). The most common lizard in Baja California Sur, they like nothing more than to hang out on the dirt roads challenging one another in a fit of territorial push ups and neck expanding displays. Their small size means they warm up faster than other reptiles, making them the first to appear each morning. They run back and forth across the road, pausing to challenge one another, and as I journey to town or the beach, it’s no small task to avoid running over the odd one that zigs instead of zags as I pass by.

Meet one of the East Cape’s most popular reptiles. Image: Davefoc

When they detect a threat (for example, the roar of my car’s engine and the rubber of my tires bearing down on them), these lizards take off at impressive speed, lifting the front of their bodies off the ground so that they run on their back legs only, giving them a comical, humanoid appearance. Despite the awkward windmill-style in which their hind legs rotate, they manage to gain sufficient speed running up the embankment on the opposite side of the road that they often catapult themselves head-over-tail in an impressive acrobatic display. The landings are not always smooth, but the technique is effective in keeping them from becoming road kill.

Reptiles, water temperatures, and sun intensity all point to Summer being around the corner, but I know summer is really on its way when I get my first tropical storm report from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Hurricane season officially begins May 15th.

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurants, hotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year. For more information, please call toll-free (US/CAN) 855-BAJA-411 or email us at info@baja.com.

Possibly Related Posts:

The post Have A Baja Moment! East Cape Sees Signs of Summer appeared first on East Cape.

Planning A Day Trip to Los Barriles, Jewel of the East Cape

Chris Sands — Thu, 09 May 2013 17:20:51 +0000

Planning A Day Trip to Los Barriles, Jewel of the East Cape

By El Barrilito

Need a break from the touristy atmosphere and rowdy nightlife of Cabo San Lucas? How about a day trip to Los Barriles, one of the jewels of the East Cape?

Los Barriles isn’t hip and it isn’t pretentious, but it is filled with nice folks and enjoys great year round weather. The town was little more than a fishing village until about 25 years ago. Now it’s populated with full and part-time expats, retired and otherwise, who have discovered the area’s natural beauty. Los Barriles offers numerous outdoor adventures, from first-class water-based activities like diving, fishing, kiteboarding, snorkeling, stand up paddle boarding, whale watching and windsurfing, to land-based pleasures like bird watching, hiking, horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking and off-road racing. Just listing them all makes be a bit tired! But rest assured: if you’re looking for a more relaxing day trip, we also boast miles of uncrowded, easily accessible white sand beaches. There is even a little nightlife.

Los Barriles is easy to find. It’s located on Highway One just 45 minutes north of the international airport in San Jose del Cabo, where you can find an excellent selection of National rental cars. You’ll know when you get here, as the highway veers inward towards the Sea of Cortez. Look for the fountain with water spraying into old wooden barrels and the Los Barriles sign on a stone wall.

Hotel Palmas de Cortez is one of the East Cape’s premier lodgings.

If you arrive in time for breakfast, the Roadrunner Café and Bakery serves the best in town. Donna, the owner, does the baking and always has fresh pastries, breads and desserts. The restaurant opens early (7 a.m.), serves great fresh-roasted coffee, and offers free Wi-Fi for their customers. El Viejo is another local favorite, and is perfect for lunch. It features Mexican food, comfortable outdoor seating, and a central downtown location. Verdugo’s RV Park has a restaurant right on the beach, and is also a great place to stop during the day.

In the evening, your selection of restaurants grows. The old standard is Tio Pablo’s. It’s the first dinner place on main street. Tio Pablo’s has indoor and outdoor service, a wide selection of food, nightly specials, a full bar, good staff and plenty of televisions. A little farther down the street you’ll find Campestre Triny, where the food and service get high ratings from locals. Their seafood is good, and they’re also happy to cook your catch. Next in line is Smokey’s Sports Bar. Smokey’s has lots of strategically placed TV’s and covered, outdoor seating. The menu focus is on seafood, sandwiches and burgers, and this is a popular place for sporting events, as well as live music and raffles. Otra Vez is also downtown, and boasts an Italian-themed menu, pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven, and live music several times a week.

Be sure and call for reservations if you’re coming to fish. Palmas de Cortez and the Hotel Buena Vista are good choices for both accommodations and fishing charters. They’ve been here for many years and employ experienced captains. You can choose a cruiser or panga from either place. The Hotel Los Pescadores isn’t on the beach, but they do have some boats available. If you have an RV to park, East Cape RV also offers fishing. Would you rather shore fish? Try The Reel Baja. They have years of experience and specialize in fly fishing.

Sea of Cortez views are a specialty in Los Barriles, as are outdoor activities like fishing, diving, windsurfing, and kiteboarding.

There some great day trips you can take by 4-wheeler. The quaint village of Santiago is only a few miles away. There you can swim in the fresh water pool at Cañon La Zorra, or lie in the San Jorge natural hot springs just a few miles further. Afterward you can order a nice lunch at the Hotel Palomar. To rent a 4-wheeler, go see the Quadman on the main drag. Quadman will show you how to operate the machine safely before he lets you go. He also has maps of the trails around Los Barriles.

The beaches at Los Barriles are protected, and safe swimming in the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez can be enjoyed by people of all ages. North of town the old road runs along the water for long stretches, and there are some great spots to snorkel, including in front of the Hotel Punta Pescadero. Long stretches of unpopulated beaches are located south of Los Barriles, and are wonderful places to spend a day sunning or swimming.

What is your favorite Baja day trip? Let us know at Baja.com.

Photos courtesy of Van Wormer Resorts’ Hotel Palmas de Cortez.

Have a Baja Moment! Rancho Leonero and Beachfront Casa Verde

Possibly Related Posts:

The post Planning A Day Trip to Los Barriles, Jewel of the East Cape appeared first on East Cape.

Have a Baja Moment! Rancho Leonero and Beachfront Casa Verde

Tom Gatch — Tue, 26 Mar 2013 00:57:05 +0000

Have a Baja Moment! Rancho Leonero and Beachfront Casa Verde

by Tom Gatch

“Alright,” our kayak guide barked with a grin. “Get those legs over the side …I want to see you all sitting sideways on your yaks!! Get used to fishing that way. It’s VERY stable!”

Kayaking at Rancho Leonero. Photo by Lynn Gatch.

He was right, of course; it was our first day of East Cape kayak fishing and we needed to get outside of my comfort zone. We were paddling along in 120 feet of deep blue water on a beautiful morning in the Sea of Cortez, and it was totally up to me to make the most of the experience. I began to twist my torso slowly as I swung my legs over the starboard rail of my Ocean Kayak Prowler and then maneuvered my lower half so that I was facing perpendicular to the bow. It was at this very moment, with my feet dangling in the crystal clear 80-degree water and the hot tropical sun beating down on my shoulders, that I came to the fullest realization that we had indeed arrived in paradise.

Rancho Leonero on the Sea of Cortez.

Almost an hour of our previous afternoon had been spent riding nearly 50 miles up the narrow highway leading north from the San Jose del Cabo airport. After crossing the boundary of the Tropic of Cancer, we wound our way over many dusty arroyos before coming to a graded road that was marked by a simple sign depicting an African lion with the moniker ‘Rancho Leonero’ painted beneath it. My wife, Lynn, and I were delighted by this low profile introduction since it was our first indication that we would truly achieve our goal of getting away from the hustle and bustle of urban existence for a few days.

Instead of proceeding directly through an ornately landscaped entrance of an upscale resort complex, we continued driving slowly along the sandy gulch for several miles, passing occasional groups of Brahma cattle and clumps of cactus that were interspersed by the timeless, drought resistant flora and fauna of the region. It was hot, dry and very sunny. Eventually, we came upon a group of small structures surrounded by a host of coconut palms, and pulled to a stop in front of the rustic entrance to Rancho Leonero.

Mexican sophistication at Casa Verde, a 3,200 square foot beachfront vacation rental.

While being escorted to our quarters, we were immediately overtaken by a feeling of tranquility that is rather hard to describe. Palm-roofed bungalows dotted the picturesque grounds, which were festooned with brightly colored bougainvillea and coconut bearing palm trees. There are also spectacular vacation rentals at Rancho Leonero — beachfront villas like the beautiful Casa Verde, a 3200 square-foot house built in the Mexican hacienda style with large porches overlooking the sparkling Sea of Cortez, the desert and the Sierra Laguna Mountains. With the extra large rooms and a Great Room with high palapa ceilings, Casa Verde is a magnificent place to experience Baja magic, too. There are choices…but this time, we stayed at the Rancho.

Either way, the real star of the show here is the sea itself. The hypnotically turquoise waters of the inshore abruptly turn to an electric cobalt blue as the shelf drops off into deep water.

The ranch is located on a small point, which allows visitors to experience prevailing coastal breezes. Directly in front of the hotel, a double reef of boulders provides habitat for a wide variety of fishes that will delight both the snorkeler and the inshore angler. Without a doubt, if there is such a thing as a spiritual vortex on our planet, this is one of them.

After quickly freshening up in our comfortable, air-conditioned room, we headed off to the bar for the customary “welcome margarita.” Before we knew it, the staff had already begun seating guests out on the patio for a wonderful dinner of mesquite-grilled rib eye steak with all the trimmings.

Rancho Leonero. Photo by Lynn Gatch.

Lodging at Rancho Leonero is provided on the ‘American Plan’, which means that all of your meals are included in the price of your stay. And fine meals they are! Owner, John Ireland, makes sure that dining at the ranch is a consistently pleasurable experience. But despite its bucolic atmosphere, Rancho Leonero is still able to be run like a well-maintained Rolex thanks to the efforts of Operations Manager, Gary Barnes Webb. This transplanted South African possesses a broad spectrum of talents that has allowed him to efficiently address a bevy of ongoing infrastructure and staff related issues, while deftly coordinating the ranch’s sportfishing fleet of pangas and cruisers.

Although the nearby sandy beaches, inviting hammocks, pool and onsite massages may encourage guests to relax, it is hard to deny that one of the primary activities at Rancho Leonero is fishing. There is something here for every type of angler. Fly fishing expert, Jeff de Brown, offers his clients at the ranch one of the only Orvis certified guide services on the Baja Peninsula, and sees to it that they are able to take full advantage of this world famous venue for angling with the fly.

The kayak fishing in this region is exceptional. And, there is even something here for shore based anglers …particularly during the dark of night! Those who are willing to toss out a well-rigged mullet or ladyfish near the dock during an evening high tide are sometimes rewarded with large pargo and snapper capable of breaking their rod or burning out their reel’s drag washers.

Of course, those electing to stay in the Rancho’s stunning rentals, like Casa Verde, also have the opportunity to experience the natural bounties of Rancho Leonero — in fact, the owners provide two kayaks, so perhaps you want to take advantage of the great fishing right at your doorstep. But no matter which choice — vacation rental or resort — is made, one thing is a certainty; travelers with a love for hot, rod-bending action on the water will have to go a long way to find a more appropriate or affordable destination than the East Cape of Baja Sur.

Hooked on Baja’ author & columnist Tom Gatch is one of Baja’s foremost writers with a focus upon outdoor and recreational topics in Baja and southern California.

Want to find out other places to Have a Baja Moment! in Baja Sur?

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurants, hotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year. For more information, please call toll-free (US/CAN) 855-BAJA-411

Possibly Related Posts:

The post Have a Baja Moment! Rancho Leonero and Beachfront Casa Verde appeared first on East Cape.

Mobula Rays and Humpback Whales: East Cape and the Cycle of Life

Dawn Pier — Fri, 01 Mar 2013 15:46:24 +0000

Mobula Rays and Humpback Whales: East Cape and the Cycle of Life

by Dawn Pier

Earlier this month, as I snuggled into bed one night and stillness settled over me, a series of rhythmic sounds came sharp and distinct out of the darkness. It sounded like a horse trotting down the stone pathway that runs next to the house, to the beach. I pictured him then: brown coat shining under the light of the waxing moon, searching for a way out of the fenced property, ears twitching this way and that at the noise of dogs stirring. The clop-clop-clop stopped then, briefly. When it started again, the percussive sounds came quickly, too quickly to be a horse. No, it was more like popcorn popping. I smiled at the sound as I realized what it was. The mobula rays (Rhinoptera sp.) had returned to the Sea of Cortez and their flat bodies were smacking the water’s surface as they leaped several feet every meter or so of their journey north.

The magical East Cape and its mobula rays. Photo by Dr. Urmas Kaldveer

The rays we see jumping in the Sea of Cortez are likely four different species belonging to the Sting Ray Family Rhinopteridae, just like the massive Pacific Eagle ray. Unlike the solitary eagle ray, they arrive every winter in schools so massive that they block out the sun as they pass over the surface and through the upper 100 meters of the water column.

Mobula (or Manta) rays are part of the East Cape cycle of life.

Like their cousins, they are diamond-shaped, but only grow to about three feet wide and weighing between 20 and 30 pounds at maturity. They arrive around the same time as the Humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae) begin to appear en mass, and we are treated to displays of the comparatively small rays jumping alongside these massive sea mammals flinging their hulk skyward. As is the case with the rays, I often hear the thud of the Humpback’s 30-ton belly flop before I see it.

Due to distance and the slow rate at which sound travels it takes several seconds for the sound of hundreds of gallons of water being displaced to reach my ears and by the time I look up, all I see is last of the white foam subsiding. Fortunately, the breach is usually the first of many. If I keep a look out, I am treated to subsequent displays or to that of a second whale joining in as he tries to outdo his or her companion.

Photo by Dr. Urmas Kaldveer

In late March, I’ll be heading north to El Cardonal to document Dr. Urmas Kaldveer’s whale identification research. Together, we’ll travel by kayak into the Whale Zone and hopefully get photographs of the tail flukes of a whale to add to his collection. And maybe, if the stars are aligned and the whale spirits in agreement, we might just get to have a close up whale encounter. Stay tuned for my report.

How about you? What unusual displays have you been treated to while visiting or living in Baja? We’d love to hear your experiences and hope you’ll share them here! And if you do, why not think about an East Cape Vacation Rental?

Watch this video on YouTube.

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurants, hotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year. For more information, please call toll-free (US/CAN) 855-BAJA-411 or email us at info@baja.com.

Possibly Related Posts:

The post Mobula Rays and Humpback Whales: East Cape and the Cycle of Life appeared first on East Cape.

East Cape Get-Away: An Angler’s Dream

Tom Gatch — Mon, 21 Jan 2013 22:57:39 +0000

East Cape Get-Away: An Angler’s Dream

by Tom Gatch

An East Cape Get-Away

For most of the visitors who fly into Baja Sur’s Los Cabos Airport, their ultimate destinations in places like San Jose Del Cabo, Cabo San Lucas or Todos Santos lie relatively close at hand. But for those who head north along Baja’s Cortez coast, the narrow highway passes through miles and miles of primitive, sparsely inhabited terrain eventually crossing the Tropic of Cancer and passing through the small poblado of Los Barriles, which is 40 miles north of the airport and in the middle of the legendary East Cape, a place where countless anglers have caught the fish of their dreams.

Well over half a century ago, the renowned writer, angler and Baja aficionado Ray Cannonfell in love with this area and professed the waters of the Cortez to be a “giant fish trap.” Since then, literally millions of anglers have visited the East Cape and returned home to enthusiastically confirm Cannon’s portrayal of the region.

For fishermen, a catch of a lifetime is possible on an East Cape get-away.

Although the numbers and varieties of fish may not be nearly as prolific as they once were back in the middle of the 1950’s, the angling opportunities and conditions here are still considered exceptional when compared to just about any other fishing venue on the planet. And for fly anglers, Hotel Buena Vista provides outstanding accommodations along with relatively easy access to several nearby beaches that offer world class action on the fly.

A majority of the hotels here either have their own sportfishing fleets or can easily arrange fishing trips for their guest’s through a reliable local charter service. One of the oldest of these is the Hotel Buena Vista Beach Resort, which began as a lavish beachfront hacienda that was originally built as the vacation retreat by Mexican General Agustín Olachea, a two-time governor of Baja California Sur.

Hotel Buena Vista Beach Resort makes for a great East Cape get-away.

In 1981, a young entrepreneur named Jesus “Chuy” Valdez ended up leasing the property during an era when the East Cape was virtually undiscovered. He eventually purchased it in 1981, and then began expanding the hotel to include 60 rooms, a fleet of 20 fishing boats, swimming pool, lushly landscaped grounds and world-class restaurant. In 1992 the resort’s name was changed from Spa Buena Vista to the Hotel Buena Vista Beach Resort.

Over the years, Valdez, along with his sons Axel, Felipe and the rest of the family, have worked diligently to turn the property into what it is today; a first rate fishing resort that can hold its own when compared to its counterparts anywhere else in the world.

Palmas de Cortez

Of course, there are several other equally notable venues in the immediate area, which include the Van Wormer resorts of Palmas de Cortez, Playa Del Sol and Punta Colorada, the latter of which is sometimes referred to as ‘the roosterfish capitol of the world’.

As time progresses, however, the fishing oriented resorts located on Baja’s East Cape are beginning to realize what a valuable, finite resource their regional waters truly are. Along with the recent frenzy of residential and business development comes the reality that a gradual erosion of this area’s unique, isolated innocence is also taking place. There is now a greatly increased emphasis on conservation with widespread support for the Worldwide Billfish Foundation’s catch-and-release program.

But, in addition to the plethora of great fishing opportunities to be had in the region, the more aesthetic therapeutic qualities of an oasis of this nature should not be forgotten either. Because, as many will agree, sitting aimlessly under a palm tree with a cold beverage in hand while staring out at the seemingly endless turquoise waters just beyond the sandy beach can be a tonic all unto itself.

An East Cape get-away can be a tonic to the soul...

‘Hooked on Baja’ author & columnist, Tom Gatch, is one of Baja’s foremost writers with a focus upon outdoor and recreational topics in Baja and Southern California.

Want to find out where to stay in the East Cape? Find out more at Baja.com!

Possibly Related Posts:

The post East Cape Get-Away: An Angler’s Dream appeared first on East Cape.

After the Rain: East Cape Transformed

Dawn Pier — Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:29:36 +0000

East Cape Transformed Thanks to the Rain

By Dawn Pier

After the rain, East Cape transformed from brown and beige to lush and verdant.

The East Cape desert has been transformed. We’ve finally received much-needed rain following a four-year drought; what was once a mixture of grey, brown and beige, has exploded into a verdant landscape unrecognizable as its former self – our Baja desert runneth over with the green of trees, grasses, vines and flowering plants. Add to that a smorgasbord of buzzing insects, singing birds and fat, content livestock. But I shall let the photos speak for themselves.

The East Cape caught the storm's wrath

We had three separate rain events this summer and total rainfall amounted to approximately 23 inches so far (we could still get more!) with variations slightly above and below that throughout the East Cape. The only downside of all this rain is that the roads, the Palo Escopeta and the Coast Road were destroyed by run off crossing and eroding them to the point where they were impassable for many days immediately after the rain. Now they are open, but travel times have increased significantly. I have never seen the roads as bad as they are now. Not even in 2006 after Hurricane John dumped 18 inches of rain on us in 36 hours.

The storm destroyed roads in the East Cape area.

Here’s just one example of what results due to all this rain: The other day, as I drove my ATV south along the Coast Road, a couple in a rented jeep flagged me down. I stopped and they inquired, “Are we almost at Cabo Pulmo?” I couldn’t help but chuckle and informed them that there was a good 30 kilometers of bad road still to go. The husband looked crushed, the wife somewhat incredulous. “Do you think I’ll make my 10 o’clock SCUBA diving reservation?” asked the husband from behind his pained expression. I looked at my watch it was 9AM. Under normal circumstances he would be there just in time, but with the roads they way they are, they probably still had another two hours of bone-jarring, agonizingly slow travel before reaching their destination. I told them not to worry because the good people at the Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort would be sure to take care of them and if he didn’t make the morning dive, they’d surely be happy to take him out that afternoon. They thanked me and continued on their bumpy way.

If you’ll recall from a previous post of mine here on Baja.com, there’s no telling when the municipality will get out here with the graders and backhoes. Nevertheless, slowly but surely, private citizens are getting out and fixing the worst spots so that trucks with good clearance can get through, but if you’re in a hurry or need to meet someone at an appointed time, until further notice I recommend that you don’t take the Coast Road. And before you go, be sure to brush up on how to survive a drive on the East Cape.

East Cape is one of Baja’s most idyllic natural areas. Find out more about visiting and staying in the East Cape!

Possibly Related Posts:

The post After the Rain: East Cape Transformed appeared first on East Cape.

Villa del Faro: An Eco-Friendly Boutique East Cape Hotel Oasis

Dawn Pier — Fri, 14 Sep 2012 17:06:24 +0000

By Dawn Pier

Villa del Faro Eco-Hotel in the East Cape is a surprise in so many ways – a lovingly handcrafted private estate turned boutique hotel, hidden on the side of a hill overlooking the Sea of Cortez smack dab in the middle of nowhere. It is truly a tropical hideaway. One is even more surprised to learn that the vast and comfortable compound is powered by solar energy (augmented by quiet generators only when necessary). There are no power or phone lines to connect to, but thanks to satellites, it isn’t difficult to connect to the outside world through the internet and television.

Villa del Faro: An Eco-Friendly Boutique East Cape Hotel Oasis

The hotel resides on 12 conscientiously tended acres of beachfront property just one mile north of the area known as Boca de las Vinoramas and 21 miles east of the Los Cabos International Airport (best access is via the bumpy Palo Escopeta Road). It is open October 15 through July 31^st (closed for peak hurricane season).

There are six unique one-bedroom spaces available for rent. Two of the units are adjoined by a shared living space, making them perfect for two couples traveling together or two singles who want separate sleeping quarters. All of the units have fireplaces and are beautifully finished with Mexican-style tile, carved furniture and textiles.

Villa del Faro's rustic beachhouse

For the young-at-heart and economically minded there is the quaint and rustic stone beach cottage that literally sits on the beach. It consists of one room plus outhouse-style baño and use of a nearby gazebo for meals and relaxation. The gazebo’s tiled roof is a work of art (US$140 per night plus 14% tax).

There is a lavish and plush “Casa Alberca” or Pool House that comprises a large bedroom, full bath, kitchen, fireplace and balcony overlooking the sea all under a large palapa (palm-thatched roof). The Casa Alberca sits adjacent to the 55-foot pool and patio surrounded by tropical landscaping, fountains and has an incredible view out to the Sea of Cortez (US$425 per night plus tax). There are paths to the beach from all the casitas. Breakfasts are included and dinners are available upon request and at additional cost. The food is sumptuous with produce obtained directly from local organic farms.

One gets the feeling of staying in a lavish private home more than a hotel, and that is how the owners want it. It wasn’t always a hotel, but had its beginnings as a get-away for a large family of friends who are artists, writers, architects and musicians. It is clear as one wanders the vast grounds that its creation was a labor of love. No detail has gone unattended – the architecture is Spanish colonial with meticulous talavera tile work throughout, hand-molded balusters and cornices, grand columns with bas relief detailing. Exquisite original artwork graces the colorful walls of all the buildings, and a spectacular marble sculpture resides at one end of the large, elegant pool area. It is a feast for both the eyes and ears – water cascading from beautiful fountains combines with the sound of waves crashing in the distance, white winged doves coo and geckos chirp.

Ready to relax? Reserve the Casa Alberca.

The owners are incredibly helpful and knowledgeable about local activities and the environment. Activities include fishing, bird watching, hiking, whale watching, snorkeling and diving (Cabo Pulmo National Park is only a half hour drive away) and horseback riding can all be arranged. A protected bay below the grounds is one of only a few places along this rugged stretch of coastline where swimming is safe.

There are no shopping malls nearby, no golf courses or discos. This is the kind of place you go to get away from all that, perhaps to rediscover yourself or rekindle the romance with that special someone in your life. Things move a little slower here, even more so than in other parts of Mexico. Villa del Faro is an incredible place to escape to.

Have you been a guest at Villa del Faro or another unique place on the East Cape? We’d love to hear about your experience in the comments here or write a review on their Baja.com advert.

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurants, hotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year.

Possibly Related Posts:

The post Villa del Faro: An Eco-Friendly Boutique East Cape Hotel Oasis appeared first on East Cape.

East Cape’s Crossroads Country Club: More Baja Country than Club

nikki — Mon, 06 Aug 2012 21:42:21 +0000

By Dawn Pier

The owners of the Crossroads Country Club clearly have a sense of humor. While it is located at the crossroads of the Coast and Palo Escopeta Roads, smack dab in the middle of the East Cape and about as far from “civilization” as you can get, it is by no means a country club. Don’t worry about donning your whites, ties or polo shirts, just come as you are and bring your appetite.

The view from Crossroads' outdoor seating

The restaurant is located on a large beachfront lot with commanding views of the expansive beach and desertscape. Large sliding glass doors are typically left open to give the place an indoor/outdoor feel with seating available both inside and out of the large contemporary building. In winter, you can watch humpback whales breaching and cavorting from your table in the shade while you sip an icy margarita prepared by Hector, one of the friendly chefs. Not into tequila? They have an extensive selection of drinks including some nice Mexican cabernets and merlots.

The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, from 8a.m.-9 p.m. every day. For breakfast they have the usual selection of eggs how you like them with tortillas, bacon or ham, pancakes, and omelets. They also have an egg and ham burrito that comes with black beans and rice that is an excellent way to fill the tank. The lunch and dinner menu covers a wide range of dishes from fish or shrimp tacos, burger and fries, to excellent pasta dishes like spicy shrimp pasta, pasta puttanesca or pasta with pesto. “Pasta puttanesca” literally mean “whore’s pasta” because it traditionally was considered a poor man’s pasta, incorporating whatever was on hand in the kitchen. It’s a vegetarian favorite that has tomatoes, garlic, black olives, onions and parmesan cheese. One of my favorites is the halibut with white wine, garlic and capers. It comes with rice and vegetables or a salad.

Most importantly, don’t forget to leave room for dessert. They make their own ice cream at the Crossroads (because it’s too difficult to get it back from the store without completely melting). There are different flavors at different times of year, but cookies and cream, sour cherry, and mango are some of my favorites. Be sure to ask for extra spoons so you can share because they dish up three big scoops with lots of whipped cream.

Wednesday is pizza night at the Crossroads, when Hector whips together a mean crust and Joan, the Italian

Crossroads' bar, serving up margaritas and more!

American owner, provides an excellent tomato sauce to become the backbone for a selection of combinations – margarita and pepperoni are standard offerings with other combos depending on what is fresh and readily available at the market. Thursdays are barbecue chicken night when you get a quarter chicken with coleslaw and either potato or pasta salad. It’s a popular event, so be sure to arrive early before they’re all gone.

Saturday night during the high season (October to late May) is music night at the Crossroads, when the locals and ex-pats alike turn up en masse to cut a rug and party with their friends and neighbors. When popular local bands like Pura Vida, Black Maria, Tim Lang and Friends, Ben and Men and David Raitt (Bonnie’s very talented brother) aren’t playing, local musicians perform in an open mike forum.

It’s the only restaurant for 20 miles in any direction, so if you find yourself out that way, be sure to drop in. If you’re lucky you might get to hang out with Jesse “The Body” Ventura, surfers Gerry Lopez and Mike Doyle, or Lance Armstrong among other celebs who have passed through the Crossroads over the years.

Have you danced or dined at Crossroads? Share your experience with us below.

Possibly Related Posts:

The post East Cape’s Crossroads Country Club: More Baja Country than Club appeared first on East Cape.

Mexican President Calderon Sides with Cabo Pulmo

Dawn Pier — Tue, 17 Jul 2012 21:28:52 +0000

By Dawn Pier

I must preface this blog entry with the caveat that I am not unbiased in reporting the recent cancellation of the Cabo Cortez Project. In 2003, I was one of several people who founded the organization Amigos para la Conservacion de Cabo Pulmo, A.C. (ACCP), the mandate of which includes the conservation of the coral reef ecosystem in Cabo Pulmo National Park. I was executive director of the organization until 2005. In 2009, spurred by the threat represented by Cabo Cortez, I rejoined the current membership as a volunteer.

On June 15th, at the height of the G-20 conference in Los Cabos, Felipe Calderon, the President of Mexico, announced the cancellation of all permits for the mega-development Cabo Cortez. This was a massive project, on a scale the likes of Cancun which was planned to begin construction next to the northern boundary of Cabo Pulmo National Park. I got goose bumps when I received an instant message telling me that it was cancelled. This is a huge success in the history of conservation in Mexico. The forces promoting this development are big fish, sharks one might say, in the international world of development. They had the backing of many Mexican government officials, not the least of which were the head of the Environmental Protection Agency, Juan Rafael Elvira Quesada, responsible for issuing the permits that originally gave the project the go-ahead. Earlier this year, in an historically unprecedented move, the Mexican Senate called Elvira Quesada to answer to charges that he issued the permits fraudulently. That is when many of us involved in the movement to save Cabo Pulmo from this threat, began to see a light at the end of the tunnel.

Although many local conservation organizations fought to get the project cancelled, it is without a doubt the tireless and diligent efforts of Greenpeace Mexico and WildCoast that brought the message of “Cabo Pulmo Vivo” and “No a Cabo Cortes!” to the hordes in Mexico City and beyond, resulting in the collection of 220,000 signatures in support of the cause. The tiny community organization of ACCP also deserves a great deal of credit for working so hard from their isolated location in a teensy off-the-grid desert village to protect a World Heritage Site for the rest of us.

The Cabo Pulmo community wrote an open statement of thanks to all who contributed to this effort, saying:

The community of Cabo Pulmo, visitors and friends wish to thank the more than 220,000 people who support conservation of the Cabo Pulmo reef because thanks to you the cancellation of the Cabo Cortes project was achieved.

Special thanks to the children, teachers, scientists, journalists, government officials, civic organizations and citizens who support conservation of the Cabo Pulmo reef.

Now we face the great challenge of creating economic alternatives without compromising the welfare of local communities and conservation of our natural heritage, so we still need your support.

From Cabo Pulmo we are making progress toward the creation of a vision of development that benefits all the communities around us. We want a Sanctuary for the Sea, Land and People, a truly ecological tourist destination, rustic and authentic. We believe that development need not be at odds with conservation, but we need to find a balance. One can make an honest living from natural resources without damaging them, which ensures that future generations will enjoy and benefit from them too.

Without your help this would not have been possible, so with all our heart …

THANK YOU!

While celebration is in order for this historically unprecedented move by the Mexican government to protect its natural heritage, we must remain vigilant. Among conservationists discussion now focuses on the steps that must be taken to protect Cabo Pulmo from unsustainable development over the long term to avoid, each time a new threat appears, the costly necessity of engaging in another fight like the one fought against Cabo Cortez.

President Calderon’s announcement to the Press (Spanish language only) regarding Cabo Pulmo is below:

Possibly Related Posts:

The post Mexican President Calderon Sides with Cabo Pulmo appeared first on East Cape.

Beware of the Jumping Cholla: Not Your Average Garden Plant

Dawn Pier — Thu, 12 Jul 2012 20:36:58 +0000

By Dawn Pier

After four years with almost no measurable rain in the East Cape region of Baja, the desert looks dead. It’s predominant color is grey with virtually all vegetation appearing devoid of life. The exception is the mesquite, which grow in arroyos (dry river beds) and must have incredibly deep roots that tap into aquifers running deep below the surface. Even the cacti are starting to show signs of water stress, turning red, their ribs shrinking like folded accordions as the water they store dwindles to precariously low levels.

Poor guy has had a run in with cholla. Image courtesy of Lon & Queta

I marvel at the free-ranging cows, horses, donkeys and goats. How do they survive? What do they eat? Fortunately, some of the ranchers provide their animals with fodder, but all too often they are left to search the desert for their meals. As they look desperately for something to eat, they opt for more and more challenging sources of food. The result is that they are seen ambling down the road with Cholla cactus stuck to their faces and necks.

Cholla (Cylindropuntia spp.) is closely related to, but distinct from the prickly pear cactus (Opuntia spp.) in that it has a cylindrical stem rather than a flattened one, like Opuntia. What the two have in common is that they are both covered in spines. Cholla is native to North America and the West Indies.

However, the Cholla experience is not restricted to animals. The Cholla’s tendency to grab onto a passerby, even a two-legged one, with a ferocity that one normally doesn’t ascribe to plants has earned it the common name “Jumping Cholla.” It seems to literally jump onto anyone daring to come too close and sinks its spines into their flesh. Consider that the spine of the Cholla can penetrate the hide of a cow: Once you, a human, have a piece of Cholla stuck into your flesh, it is not only painful, but you will discover just how difficult it is to remove it. You can’t grab it to pull it off or you’ll find your fingers and your leg are connected like Legos.

In my first encounter with this nasty cactus, I trod in bare feet on a dried piece that had somehow found its way onto the kitchen floor. Fortunately, a Cholla-knowledgeable Baja friend was present and, once I’d stopped cursing in pain and hopping up and down on one foot, he taught me how to remove it.

If you’re close to home, chopsticks work perfectly as removal devices. Otherwise, find a couple of strong, straight sticks. Carefully slide the sticks between your skin and the plant at two points along the cactus. You will notice that the spines are firmly stuck in your skin and moving them creates a disconcerting sensation, as your skin pulls out in little tent-like peaks where each of the spines inserted itself. You’ve just discovered what makes Jumping Cholla seem to jump, and that this isn’t going to be as easy as you may have first thought. The spines are covered in microscopic reverse barbs that work their way into the skin once they are in place.

Extracting cholla from your skin is a lot like removing a Band-Aid; it is best done quickly and without hesitation. Try to relax (ha!) and quickly move the sticks at right angles to the main body of the cactus, away from your body in a smooth and strong flicking motion. If you do it correctly, the pain will be acute, but momentary. If you don’t do it right, well, there’s more pain coming down the pike.

Cholla, along with rattlesnakes, scorpions and tarantulas, are just another of the desert’s charms. Check out the video below for more information on the jumping cholla.

Have you ever had a run-in with jumping cholla? Or another desert resident perhaps? Share your experience with us!

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for the Baja California Peninsula, supported by a full-service tour operator staffed by Baja locals (our “Baja Travel Savants”). We offer Baja travelers expert advice about localrestaurants, hotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. We provide bilingual customer support, information and sales seven days a week, 365 days a year.

Possibly Related Posts:

The post Beware of the Jumping Cholla: Not Your Average Garden Plant appeared first on East Cape.

East Cape

Have A Baja Moment! East Cape Sees Signs of Summer

Related articles

Planning A Day Trip to Los Barriles, Jewel of the East Cape

Related articles

Have a Baja Moment! Rancho Leonero and Beachfront Casa Verde

Related articles

Mobula Rays and Humpback Whales: East Cape and the Cycle of Life

East Cape Get-Away: An Angler’s Dream

After the Rain: East Cape Transformed

Villa del Faro: An Eco-Friendly Boutique East Cape Hotel Oasis

Related articles

East Cape’s Crossroads Country Club: More Baja Country than Club

Mexican President Calderon Sides with Cabo Pulmo

Beware of the Jumping Cholla: Not Your Average Garden Plant